Wednesday, August 25, 2010

Istanbul



The throne of two great empires, Istanbul is the 5th largest city in the world where sprawling streets envelop huge monuments that attest to the power and influence concentrated here for over a thousand years until the collapse of the Ottoman Empire in the 1923.

We've been exploring this beautiful city with Andrew's family who met us here on Saturday.  Europe, Asia, and back in an afternoon is no problem for this group lead by our intrepid, well-informed guide, Mrs. Whyte (sorry folks, "Tours-by-Lorna" are all booked for the year).

More to come soon, but first the archeology, art, culture, food, and history await us.

Monday, August 16, 2010

Rejected

Another quıck update -- more ınfo comıng soon.

But here ıs how we felt leavıng the Indıan Embassy, where we trıed to get work vısas:

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xck45q_lebron-james-top-10-blocks_sport

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Quick Update

Not too much news, just enjoying our last days at Pastoral Vadi and planning our next steps. Off to Ankara on an overnight bus Sunday so we can be first in line at the Indian Embassy on Monday morning. Tourist visas are no problem, but employment visas may be another story. Wish us luck!


Dancing at a village wedding

Sunday, August 8, 2010

The Creek

I struggle to write about the mountain creek that runs along Pastoral Vadi because to do so, to describe its beauty and what the water does to me, for me, would lead the reader (I think there are 6 now) to falsely believe that I am not enjoying my time at Pastoral Vadi, or even abroad.

I'm happily immersed in Turkish culture here -- the people, the food, the chai-coffee-raki-fueled dancing that strikes me as a milder bhangra -- yet there's nothing particularly Turkish, or social, for that matter, about my favorite part of Pastoral Vadi: the creek.

After a morning shift in the field, I head through the woods and towards the water with a slight, and altogether strange feeling of earnest apprehension that falls somewhere in between arriving too late to a party and rushing to work.

At this point, power-walking in a manner that suggests overdue bowel movements, I tell myself to calm down, it's only a creek. And when I arrive, panting anyway, to finally see what I'd been listening to all morning, it's really nothing special, just trees, grass, rocks, flowing water.

But how special it is! I think to myself, throwing off my shirt and shoes. Trees, grass, rocks, and flowing water!

When my foot hits the water (always surprisingly cold) and slowly descends onto the slippery stone a foot below, magic happens: I forget about stuff.

I forget about the three hours of morning weeding. I forget how incrediby hospitable, hard-working, and patient (Turkish lessons) the villagers are here in Yaniklar. I forget that I forgot to write my Mom back, and that I should get on that soon (Hi Mom!). I forget about questioning why exactly I've been working on so many farms because, in those moments of questioning, I forget how well we've eaten, what we've learned and who we've met. I forget about wondering what I'll do after this trip. I forget about my interest in finance and my love for a city. I forget the sad, self-inflicted frustration of defending the former and latter to people like Sinan, who makes a Williamsburg hipster look like a Goldman Sachs I-Banker, and his sidekick, Levant, who, to be polite, is a negligent hypocrite with few brain cells left unlit ("We hate people who judge, man"; "Cities take your soul, man"; "There's definitely no poverty in India, man, just peace and love. Just go to Goa, man, there's just all peace and love and pyschedelic raves, man"). I forget about the dance-off breaks Larissa and I take while weeding. I forget about brainstorming for the next blog post.

And what I'm left to remember, now lying down in the middle of the creek, propped on my elbows and looking at nothing, are the memories floating past me, drifting downstream from the Vermont mountain creeks where I grew up playing. I see my sister, ever the designer, collecting rocks to stack for her statues. I see my brother, a born pitcher, collecting rocks to knock down her completed works. I see myself, the youngest, with a rock in hand and unsure who to imitate. I see my parents sitting on the bank, arms around their knees, knees to their chests, with books, newspapers, and sandwiches at their side. I feel the cold, clean, rejuvanating mountain creek water. And I'm only stirred by the lunch bell, to which I happily get up to eat with our new Turkish friends.


We Make Party? Turkish Party?

Yes, please! Pastoral Vadi has been an excellent new home. I eat delicious food prepared in wood-burning ovens, sleep in a modest yet elegant bungalow (recent upgrade from the tent we had this past week), and earn my keep by washing dishes, collecting wood, or weeding the fields. Alternative, yes. Anti-society and self-above-all-else, not at all.

The people here - staff, fellow volunteers, and guests - are what makes Pastoral Vadi a warm, welcoming place. With enthusiastic smiles and hand gestures, language barriers are broken and we enjoy our typical meal-time game of trying to guess each other's intentions. "Tonight, we make party?" was easy enough to understand. Thursday night, the staff joined guests wrapping up their permaculture course here to sing traditional Turkish songs and dance, with a little Raki to encourage the mood. We all had fun. Turkish people seem to place high value on their social relationships, greeting each other with hugs and kisses, taking time to talk over many small glasses of chai, and adding "abi" or "abla" at the end of a name to signify a more congenial relationship.

As Andrew and I returned from our first day off in awhile, we agreed how nice it felt to come home to a dinner with friends. This is why we decided to work while traveling (free room and board were big factors too!). Weeding for 6 hours isn't a satisfying way to spend a day abroad, but when the rest of that day is filled with new friends, sights, tastes, and experiences, the weeding is well worth it.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Leaving Yakabagh

After our story-book encounter with Gulyahat, I was even more excited about our next farm-stay.  The sight of our accommodations - a bare mattress in the attic - deflated my excitement.  35 hours of work a week for this?!  We ended up in another room, a small step up from the original offer.  

Our mattresses in the attic

The chores weren't tough, the work in the fields was pleasant, and the people were generally friendly.  But the atmosphere was beyond frustrating. 

Instead of trying to describe our whole stay, here's an glimpse:

Before we arrived, the house was full of bees.  There were nests in windowsills, on the ceiling, and in the shower.  Sinan, our host who slept in a tree house above his portal, insisted that the bees were rightful inhabitants, a part of nature like us all.  And so they stay.  You leave them alone, they won't bother you.  He'd been stung 4 times.  Everyone else - his daughter, wife, and friends who stayed for who knows how long - had all been stung several times.  Eventually, a friend took the nests down.  The bees still have free range in the yard, but at least there is refuge inside.     


 Andrew hoping to be teleported to New York, or Gulyahat's house

Some parts of my stay were nice, but there was an overall feeling of neglect, and selfishness that made me ask, why am I here?  The Yakabagh House on the website was a productive, vibrant community.  Upon my arrival, I quickly learned the place and its people had moved in a direction I did not want to support with a month of free, full-time work. 

One week was enough.  To Sinan's credit, he arranged that we come here, Pastoral Vadi.  He listened to our misgivings (which I didn't detail but you get the idea), and kindly offered to call the owner of our current home.  Not wanting anyone to dampen the positive energy of his house, he assured us that our leaving was "good for you, and good for me."  Then off he went to a rave for the weekend.  Not for the partying of course (he's a yogi), but to reunite with "The Family (the Rainbow Family that is)."  I'm happy that Sinan and friends have found a lifestyle they feel comfortable with, however alternative it may be, but the Yakabagh House was not for us.